Wintour savors future of Chinese fashion
Updated: 2015-01-30 07:45
By Chen Jie(China Daily USA)
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Anna Wintour, editor-in-chief of the American Vogue and artistic director of Conde Nast, Vogue's publisher, is probably the most powerful and influential woman in the fashion world.
But she does not think the power that influences the industry is really about her.
"I'm very lucky that I have such a fantastic platform, working with Conde Nast Publications and The Metropolitan Museum, so that I'm able to help people whether they work in fashion or other areas. So it's important to me that I'm in the position to help people," she tells China Daily during her recent visit to Beijing to introduce the exhibition China:
Through the Looking Glass, which will run at the Metropolitan Museum from May 7 to Aug 16.
The 65-year-old is also the director of the Anna Wintour Costume Center at the Met.
"I've always been interested in journalism. My father was a journalist. I came from the background of a newspaper. Fashion is something I was interested in while growing up, and I also explore different areas using the platform."
It's not the first time Wintour has visited China. She came to Shanghai in 2011.
"Shanghai and Beijing are extraordinarily mixed between past and present," she says.
"What impressed me is how vibrant the present is. And it's much more awesome than I had imaged before.
"Young Chinese women are incredibly modern, taking a lot from Western tailoring, and I see many young women here influenced by sports.
"There is also a great explosion of Chinese models today and they have completely changed the runway in Paris, London, Milan and New York, because all the fashion world is looking for inspiration from China. So many Western fashion houses are open for business here. They need to reach customers and work with Asian girls."
But the fashion editor famous for her eye for trends and support of young designers acknowledges that she does not feel any clear "Chinese style".
"I have to be honest. I see a lot of beautiful clothes, but don't see a definition of the style that I could say: 'This is the modern Chinese look.' And I would love to see that. I feel it's close but not emerged yet," she says.
"And I hope there is going to emerge a group of designers who understand the Chinese women and men, want to dress them and may be less influenced by the West or by the past."
Significant and encouraging, she says, is that in the last five years, in leading design schools in both the United States and London, the number of Chinese students has increased every year. They are often the best and most hardworking.
"I see interest, talent and dedication in those young students. The worldwide problem is that it is very easy to be famous very quickly today. Sometimes that can lead to early disaster," she says.
"My strong advice is to work with other designers, someone you admire, before you set up your own business, because everybody needs to learn and to study their craft."
She also advises Chinese designers that while global recognition is important for everyone, she does not think Western approval is necessary for talent to do well.
"Maybe doing shows in Paris, London or New York would mean much media coverage, but the most important thing is to follow your own god, create your own route."
chenjie@chinadaily.com.cn
(China Daily USA 01/30/2015 page14)
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