Place of pilgrimage

Updated: 2014-10-02 07:34

By Li Yang(China Daily)

The Jokhang Temple in Lhasa.

For both religious and practical reasons, visitors must observe several rules.

Hats, sunglasses and bottled water aren't allowed, and cameras can't be taken beyond the White Palace.

Potala only accepts 2,300 visitors a day from 9 am to 12 am, and 3:30 pm to 4:30 pm. Tickets must be booked a day in advance and cost 200 yuan ($33).

Tours of the inner palace start at a stone stairway leading to the compound's back entrance. They are limited to hourlong nonstop walks that pass by all the main sites, such as the scripture halls, and monks' dormitories and tombs.

Only a small section of the palace is open to the public.

The ancient architects paid special attention to the use of the natural light and ventilation through openings in the roofs and walls. All rainfall is collected for residents' daily use.

Virtually every surface is adorned with sculptures, frescos and tapestries. The dancing illumination emanating from butter lamps, the fragrance of incense and the chanting of sutras make the experience multisensory and, ultimately, spiritual.

Potala hosts more than 3,000 Buddhist statues, the largest of which is three stories high, while the smallest is fingernail sized.

Devotees tap wooden rails as a gesture symbolizing kowtowing to pray to each deity to seek its blessings according to its responsibilities in the divine division of labor.

The most pious travel to Potala from their hometowns by foot, kowtowing with each step along the way. They face Lhasa, stand straight, raise their hands, kneel and then lie on their stomachs and stretch out their arms, chanting sutras to the earth beneath their faces. Such ascetic practices demonstrate their faith while cleansing their souls.

Despite arduousness, the joy of moving closer to the holy place - physically and mentally - shows in their smiling faces.

The brand of happiness reflected in their eyes is scantly seen in the country's materially wealthier cities.

And even those of other faiths or none at all typically find a visit to Potala to be a spiritual experience.

Contact the writer at liyang@chinadaily.com.cn

(China Daily 10/02/2014 page10)