Art
Song brocade
Updated: 2011-02-12 10:19
(Chinaculture.org)
In terms of the artistic style, Song Brocade embraces variable geometric figures as its overall framework. Inside the framework, there are patterns involving flowers, ornamental scepters and clouds (the latter two indicate good fortune). Moreover, different colors that jointly characterize a piece of brocade coexist in harmony and contrast. In this way, brocade is beautiful yet not vulgar, simple yet elegant.
Due to its colored wefts, Song Brocade belongs to weft brocade (Shu Brocade is warp brocade). The ornamental brocading is produced by a supplementary, non-structural weft in addition to the standard weft that holds the warp threads together. The purpose of this is to give the appearance that the weave actually was embroidered on. Song Brocade is characterized by complex patterns, simple combinations of colors, and solid yet soft texture. It is also flat, stiff and smooth. It is woven by using multicolored wefts alternately in separate parts, which makes its surface more colorful and enlarges the cycle for the colors of the patterns. Patterns of Song Brocade have fixed styles. Usually with varied colors combined in an elegant and harmonious manner, there are flower branches inside geometric frames, an octagon with geometric lines surrounding the central flowers, fish playing in algae, and peonies.
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Song Brocade can be categorized according to the structure, craftsmanship, quality of the materials, thickness of brocade and the utility. Generally there are three categories of Song Brocade, namely, Big Brocade, Box Brocade, and Small Brocade.
As the most representative of Song Brocade, Big Brocade is featured by thick, solid, and exquisite texture, as well as abundant layers of color. Double Brocade, which can be grouped under Big Brocade, is the most valuable variety of Song Brocade. It boasts several distinctive characteristics. Specifically, a large amount of entwisted gold threads or sliced gold foils are used in the warp and weft. Besides, in terms of the techniques, shuttles are made by twisting a number of silk threads into one strand. Multicolored shuttles are cast, some for creating homochromatic effects, some for changing colors in different parts of a pattern, and others for specific colorific effects. Moreover, there are plentiful patterns, among which plants, flowers, turtle backs, coiling braids, and the eight Buddhist treasures are the most common ones.
Most of Double Brocade products are varied furnishings and giant scrolls displayed or hanging in imperial palaces. For instance, there is a masterpiece of Song Brocade housed by the Palace Museum, which is a Double Brocade scroll from the Qing Dynasty. Entitled “Pure Land,” the 2-meter-wide single design consists of 278 Buddhist figures with different facial expressions, lofty palaces, divine pools, trees and rocks, curling auspicious clouds, as well as rare flowers and birds. The scroll fully demonstrates the superb artistic techniques characterizing Song Brocade.
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Fine Brocade, another subcategory under Big Brocade, is simpler than Double Brocade in terms of its raw materials and number of the warp-and-weft layers. In modern times, silk is used alternately with rayon to reduce costs. Moderately thick and easy to produce, it is widely used for decorating or framing clothes, high-ranking paintings and calligraphic works, as well as valuable presents.
Usually patterns of Fine Brocade embrace geometric figures as the overall framework. There are varied designs inside the framework, such as flowers, the eight treasures (including the diamond knot, antique coin, calligraphic work, painting, etc), instruments used by the Eight Immortals (including the fan, sword, gourd, cypress branch, flute, lotus, etc), the eight Buddhist mascots (including the divine pot, umbrella, Dharma-cakra, lotus, double fish, whelk, etc), and lucky herbs. Fine Brocade is best represented by “Brocade Embroidered with Floral Patterns and Coiling Braids.”
Box Brocade is weaved from mixture materials of silk and yarn. The most common patterns of Box Brocade are continuous and symmetrical stripes. For its neat and unique manner, Box Brocade is usually used for mounting hanging scrolls of paintings and calligraphic works.
Small Brocade is a fine mounting material for decorating small craftworks and mounting pictures for its random, tiny patterns.
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