It's not often a new restaurant that generates much buzz in a neighborhood - residents know they come and go like the spring sun. It's rarer still to find a convergence of old and new establishments creating a hub of decent cheap eats.

The exception that proves the rule is a pocket of Huixin Dongjie, between Anyuan Lu and Beitucheng Donglu, west of the University of International Business and Economics (UIBE).

It's a surprisingly spacious yet unrefined area beyond a vendor of jianbing (Chinese crepes) and steamed food that offers a number of cuisines: Beijing breakfast, huntun (wonton), pasta, Yunnan noodles and Xinjiang barbecue.

Breakfast

Chuan Ma Yin La

A small team of cooks rents out this nondescript, grungy space across from a bus stop. They serve classic Beijing breakfast dishes: baozi, jiaozi, youtiao (deep-fried dough), huntun, tea eggs and the best of the bunch, doufunaor, silky soft tofu and a thick, anise-tinged sauce, the doufunaor is best eaten when you stir in a dollop of chili or as a soup base to dip in the youtiao or baozi.

The huntun, while somewhat lacking in meat, is another silky dish where texture is of the essence. Another delight is their baozi, best eaten with the complimentary pickled greens. Everything is less than 2 yuan, but be aware that breakfast means breakfast, as the cooks rotate out at 10 am to make way for a separate team of cooks for lunch.

Address: Huixinli community, opposite UIBE West Gate (north of Holiland bakery), Huixin Dongjie, Chaoyang district

Tel: 6481-2688/6491-2332

Lunch

Pasta Factory

The Pasta Factory is a charming, closet-sized spot that has unique but subtle takes on pasta.

The carbonara with tuna (25 yuan), which was rich but not too heavy, makes me reminisce about wolfing down instant mac 'n' cheese with canned tuna in high school.

The black pepper beef with pasta (18 yuan) had a roasted and slightly sweet quality in its sauce that nicely balanced the black pepper.

However, the restaurant scores poorly on their paninis (ranging from 16 yuan to 22 yuan), which were short on cheese and lengthy in the amount of time it takes to get the sandwich to your table.

Another drawback is that though the Pasta Factory claims to serve handmade pasta, they apparently run out of it quickly.

Be prepared to wait for a table because gaggles of students flock to this place, perhaps because of the cute American decor.

Address: Huixinli community, opposite UIBE West Gate (north of Holiland bakery), Huixin Dongjie, Chaoyang district

Tel: 157-1288-5672

Hangzhou Xiaolongbao

With its irresistible stack of bamboo steamers placed on the front step, this tiny dwelling a few doors up from the Pasta Factory attracts both curious foreigners and knowing locals. The baozi are a bit skimpy on the meat but at 4 yuan for a shade under a dozen and a pop of juice with each bite, it's a lunchtime bargain.

The jiaozi (4 yuan for about 10 pieces) nearly always compel diners to devour them. However, the beef fried rice and huntun are only serviceable.

Address: Huixinli community, opposite UIBE West Gate (north of Holiland bakery), Huixin Dongjie, Chaoyang district

Dinner

Ge Huntun

It's hard to disparage this restaurant for its extremely bright interior. Located across the dusty path from the Pasta Factory, Ge Huntun is a recent addition to a cove of restaurants on Huixin Dongjie where the turnover is high.

The interior lighting is so intense that it's the first thing you see as you walk past the cluster of restaurants.

The brightness, however, is forgiven after you taste their plump huntun, which come with pork, corn or vegetable fillings.

The small serving of about 12 dumplings (12 yuan) is enough to fill up any late-night craving.

While the huntun is not revolutionary, it is quick, cheap and is served in a respectable broth.

The restaurant, with its kitschy decor that makes you feel like you are in a mother's kitchen, also makes bibimbap, spicy Korean instant noodles, and kimchi fried rice with fried egg, all under 20 yuan.

Address: Opposite UIBE West Gate (north of Holiland bakery), Huixin Dongjie, Chaoyang district

Hongshaorou Chuanqi

Once you're past Ge Huntun, veer right over the rocky path and head toward a sign with an arrow that points left. Confused?

Exploring diners, or those who are just plain lost, will be glad they stumbled upon Hongshaorou Chuanqi, a surprisingly roomy restaurant in the armpits of this alleyway.

If you aren't afraid of fatty swine slow-cooked in soy sauce, this is a gold mine. Their specialty, the hongshaorou, red cooked pork (14 yuan), has the right bounce and tenderness without being too salty.

With half a tea egg and a side order of steamed cabbage, it's a filling meal for lunch or dinner.

The eatery also makes three kinds of sandwiches (5 yuan) using the traditional Chinese mo bread, a circular white muffin that is very absorbent. They come with three fillings: hongshaorou, black pepper beef and a spicy Korean sausage.

The Korean-style sandwich could have used a few more slices of grilled sausage and a little less onion.

If you don't dig swine, they have chicken.

Address: Huixinli community, opposite UIBE West Gate (north of Holiland bakery), Huixin Dongjie, Chaoyang district

Tel: 6497-5426

China Daily