Din Tai Fung is a reassuring slice of reasonably priced Taiwan comfort food in Hong Kong's hectic Causeway Bay. Rebecca Lo tucks in.

I first visited Din Tai Fung in its hometown. During a holiday in Taipei, we decided to try some of its famous xiao long bao (steamed pork dumplings) in the Fuxing Sogo branch after being stymied by the ridiculously long line at Taipei 101.

Even though there are Din Tai Fung outlets in Hong Kong, I really wanted my first experience of the restaurant to be where it was founded. Despite also having to wait in Fuxing, it wasn't nearly as long (and I wasn't nearly as famished).

Back in Hong Kong, I was ready to do some comparisons. While Din Tai Fung isn't as ubiquitous as Starbucks or McDonalds, it is still a popular chain with franchises across the globe. And, unlike Starbucks or McDonalds, the menu is varied and requires some finesse at ensuring authenticity. No offense to the Big Mac - I have certainly had my fair share of those - but making soupy xiao long bao isn't exactly as easy as flipping a burger. I was curious to see how Hong Kong held up to its older Taipei siblings.

We opted for the Causeway Bay branch, in the Regal Hotel complex and occupying the ground floor of what was previously Delay No Mall. As expected, we had a short wait, but the relatively early hour of 6 pm ensured that we were whisked to a table in no time. Note to self: go super early to get a choice of tables.

The space is cavernous and with more than a hundred tables, it has a cafeteria ambience. We sit quite close to our neighbors and can easily eavesdrop on the numerous conversations around us.

The place ran like a well-oiled machine. I found the service friendly and efficient.

There were at least two or three servers within eye-contact distance whenever we needed anything, and our teacups were filled expediently despite the hungry people clamoring for food around us.

The menu was a sheet for us to tick off the items that we desired. Although they didn't have the chicken soup with wontons that I loved in Fuxing, most of the staples were present. We decided to round up a bit more than the usual suspects after a quick glance at adjacent tables showed that portions were smaller than in Taipei.

I feel that the hallmark of an eatery such as Din Tai Fung is whether it gets its basics right. Are its ingredients fresh, despite its mass-market appeal? Are dishes representative of what I would get in Taiwan, or have they been adjusted to suit local tastes? Most importantly: Why does it consistently rank on the top lists of many foodies?

We started with the xiao long bao. Presented in a bamboo steamer on a white doily, the six steamed pork dumplings were not too big, not too small and not too thick.

They released their rich broth with a nice burst of flavor in my mouth, although I have to admit that I burned my tongue due to impatience. We slurped them up greedily with the red vinegar and ginger shards provided.

Sichuan four-season beans is one of my favorite dishes, and it didn't disappoint at Din Tai Fung, despite the somewhat snack-sized portion. The beans were crunchy and the minced pork savory with just a hint of chili.

The highlight for me was the deep-fried pork chop. It was perfectly seasoned with black pepper, to give it bite, and fried to retain its juiciness, although it was chewy rather than crispy.

I enjoyed the textural difference, as most battered chops often cover up meat that could be sub-standard. Not here.

We finished with peanut-speckled and chili-oil-infused dan dan noodles, then added vegetable wonton in chili oil for an extra dose of veg. Yummy on both accounts. The deliciously nutty broth of the noodles balanced the hearty meat-based dishes, while the crunchy greens in the wontons rounded out the texture.

I concluded that despite a few tweaks to suit Hong Kong, Din Tai Fung here is faithful to its soul and spirit. It makes for a satisfyingly economical meal that justifies the wait.

Contact the writer at features@chinadaily.com.cn

IF YOU GO

Din Tai Fung, the Causeway Bay branch

G/F, 68 Yee Woo Street, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong. 852-3160-8998.

Average cost per person: HK$150 ($19).

Recommended: Steamed Pork Dumplings, Taiwan Dan Dan Noodles, Sichuan Four-Season Beans.

(China Daily 07/12/2014 page12)