As a child, Du Jiameng spent a lot of time watching people, from her friends in kindergarten, to neighbors, to strangers. Her parents thought their daughter would grow up to be a psychologist.

"In fact, I was just looking at the jewelry they were wearing," says Du. "The glittering ones attract me most."

Describing herself as a sensitive thinker good at telling stories, Du, 23, says it was her mother's jewelry, gifts from her grandmother or her father, which impressed her most.

"These pieces are full of stories and history," she says. "Jewelry in ancient China used great techniques, which I have always admired. But it is my personal feelings, memories and emotions that go into my designs."

These creations can be seen in Du's own line of jewelry, J&J, which she co-founded with Chinese painter-photographer Dong Jie, six months ago in London.

For the exhibition titled Transformation at VA Space in Beijing's 798 Art Zone, Du also brought in 10 young Chinese jewelry designers, who had studied or are studying at Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London, where Du graduated.

"We believe that jewelry design in China, like the whole fashion world, is undergoing tremendous changes, both from the perspectives of designers and consumers," says Du, the curator of the exhibition.

"We grew up influenced by both Chinese and Western culture. It's very interesting to reflect our experiences through jewelry design," she says.

With more than 100 pieces on show, the designers amply display their attitudes toward contemporary jewelry design.

"Chinese students mirror how international design cultures are evolving," says Simon Fraser, course leader, MA Design: Ceramics, Furniture, Jewelry of Central Saint Martins College of Arts and Design.

He points out that for some, their Chinese heritage is a source of inspiration and fascination and they have a desire to celebrate it. For others, global concepts or approaches and new technologies are the focus as they are more inspired to develop visions for future worlds that are emerging.

That world vision has allowed many of the students to come up with unique designs.

Yang Jing, who has 26 necklaces displayed at the exhibition, has presented a selection of works inspired by different cultures. The 24-year-old graduate from the London College of Fashion, created her necklaces from beads bought from different countries while traveling.

One of her necklaces, called Princess of Qing Dynasty, was her first piece made during her sophomore year. Mainly made from Chinese beads bought from Jingdezhen, Yang was inspired by a television series set in the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911).

Another piece, Queen of Knossos, was inspired by the site of Knossos in Greece, while it was the lights in nightclubs that were mirrored in a necklace called Party Queen.

"More and more Chinese consumers are understanding that they can express themselves through their jewelry," Fraser says.

Although contemporary Chinese jewelry design may be young in a global sense, the country's centuries-old understanding of creating valuable and beautiful objects is the background of the new designs.

"Today, all over the world, new jewelry cultures are emerging. It will be exciting to see what the young graduates in this exhibition will go on to achieve," Fraser says.

The exhibition will run until May 30.

chennan@chinadaily.com.cn

(China Daily 04/16/2013 page20)