[Photo provided to China Daily]

"You've got to eat anyway, so why not," says one regular. "I've been coming for years. You meet different people every time, have a great meal for just 100 yuan, and support lots of people who really need help.

"There are people escaping sex-trafficking, or ISIS, or who have gotten death threats from the Taliban," says Brian Germain of the Kara Tepe Refugee Camp, where he volunteered this summer in Lesvos, Greece. Forks stop moving as Germain describes meeting a man who had to swim for nine hours, holding his small daughter the whole time, after a boat built for 20 but loaded with 60 capsized.

Such stories and causes turn a night of good food into food for thought. For more and more victims of horrific circumstances, the two are coming together very often.

"I like to know that I'm giving to others while I'm enjoying my currywurst at the German Christmas bazaar," says Shunyi resident Cooke.

"But I have to admit, it's a great party, too," she says.

"There are beautiful crafts for sale and lovely Christmas music to enjoy. Now that the weather is turning colder, in my mind I can already smell the hot mulled wine, the whole roast pig and those delicious sausages."

Contact the writer at michaelpeters@chinadaily.com.cn