Zhejiang province's Moganshan is a Chinese destination made famous by foreigners - but its natural offerings, rather than manmade facilities, conjures the potion that makes the place simply surreal.

It first came into prominence as a holiday destination when British businessman Hayley Bell built the first villa around 1896.

After experiencing a lull in visitors for decades, Moganshan made its way back into the spotlight a few years ago when several foreigners introduced luxury accommodations to the landscape.

South African Grant Horsfield was one of the first to do so, having opened up the upscale Naked Stables Private Reserve in 2011. He was quickly followed by Frenchman Christophe Peres, who started Le Passage Mohkan Shan in 2012.

Many of the rustic farmhouses in the area were transformed into beautiful villas, blending old-world charm with contemporary architecture and amenities.

The concept was a hit. And still is.

Many youth view the area as a trendy haven that offers the perfect mix of natural beauty and modern luxury.

But to me, all these facilities are merely "attachments" to the mountains that make traveling on them more convenient.

The real charm lies in the mountains themselves - the bamboo oceans, singing streams and foggy mornings that have lured me back time and again over the years.

I can walk, run or cycle freely amid lush greenery and away from so-called scenic spots that are almost always crowded with tourists taking photos of a certain pavilion or ancient tree.

Upon arriving in Deqing county, where Moganshan is located, I find that the world around me grows quieter on the way up to the northern part of the mountains. Crowds and vehicles gradually disappear from sight, and I soon find myself surrounded by green lands and blue skies uninterrupted by skyscrapers.

I've always stayed in private hostels that have been tastefully renovated from the homes of local farmers in idyllic little villages. I stayed in Original House (Qing Jing Yuan She) and Lost Villa (Da Le Zhi Ye) on my latest visit.

The designers of these establishments have backgrounds in architecture and urban planning, and have incorporated Chinese-style aesthetics into minimalist design. With a calming palette of white and gray hues, and huge windows to usher in copious sunshine, these accommodations blend in perfectly with their natural surroundings.

There are several things to do in the vicinity of Original House in Nanlu village, such as digging for sweet potatoes - with permission from the hostel staff, of course - or hiking to the nearby Tea Mountain to take in views of the valley into which the village nestles.

The nameless hill opposite Tea Mountain, which is around 600 meters high and has hardly any clear trails, is an interesting place to explore. It's covered in bamboo - an iconic plant in Moganshan, since it used to be a major local income source for people who sold bamboo scaffolds and railings.

Walking in the forest is like walking in an ancient Chinese painting, with elegant bamboo on both sides of the faint trails rising so high that they create a green corridor. The hike to the mountaintop is steep, and you can only ascend certain parts by grabbing bamboo for support. But the breathtaking view from the top is worth it.

The hostel also offers professional-grade mountain bikes for sightseeing. There are many routes perfect for beginners that offer vistas of bamboo groves, lakes and fields.

I chose a flat path through the countryside around Nanlu that was fairly easy. You can also cycle to Lost Villa via this route. It's a pleasant half-hour trip that lets you admire the golden fields and dozens of adorable pups that meander along the road.

Lost Villa, or Da Le Zhi Ye, originally a xanadu mentioned in the ancient book The Classic of Mountains and Rivers, is a today a cluster of village houses.

There are many simple pleasures to indulge in at Moganshan's hostels without having to leave the premises.

You can play with the owners' dogs, read on balconies that overlook mountains with a glass of beer or warm beverage and enjoy a quiet meal of the area's signature stewed pork with soybean sauce and chicken soup.

Less is more in this wilderness. That's the beauty of the place.

xuxiaomin@chinadaily.com.cn

(China Daily 12/02/2015 page19)