Net gains Fishermen on frozen Chagan Lake in Jilin province haul in an impressive catch on Thursday at the start of a regional winter festival. Photo by Zhang Xin'ge / For China Daily

A large winter fishing event in China kicked off on Thursday at Chagan Lake, in Jilin province.

Chagan Lake, which covers an area of 420 sq km, is the biggest freshwater lake in the northeastern province. Due to its swan-like shape, members of the Mongolian ethnic group regard it as a holy lake. Local people have fished the lake for generations. The community is the only one in northern China that still fish using traditional methods in the winter.

Winter fishing in the lake, which boasts 68 varieties of fish, has been popular for more than 1,000 years. Winter fishing usually lasts about two months — from the end of December to just before Spring Festival.

Winter fishing is popular because the freezing temperatures mean the fish can be easily preserved and transported.

At 4 am, several horse-drawn carts cross the frozen lake in the dark. A 1,000-meter-long fishing net piled up on a cart is as high as the people pulling it.

To protect themselves from the cold, the fishermen wear thick sheepskin overcoats, caps and boots. However, their eyebrows, beards and even eyelashes freeze in -30 C temperatures. Even the bellies of the horses become covered with frost.

They set out so early because winter fishing usually takes about 10 hours and requires 30 to 50 fishermen to work in tandem.

"It will take two hours to get the net under the ice," said Zhang Wen, a leader of a group of fishermen.

Fishermen use various iron tools to cut a hole in the half-meter-thick ice.

They dig hundreds of holes at equal distance, forming a huge circle on the lake. Then, using strings and wooden poles, they open the fishing net underwater.

"We cannot make any mistakes during the process. We especially must avoid damaging the net," Zhang said.

According to local customs, a ritual is held each December before winter fishing begins. The locals pray for a good harvest and safe fishing.

At 2 pm, three horses pull an iron capstan, a piece of nautical equipment used to apply force to ropes and cables, to drag the net out of the ice with fresh fish.

Hundreds of local residents and tourists gather around the net to buy the fish. The fish are always popular before Spring Festival.

"I've been looking forward to eating the fresh fish for a long time. The taste is better than any frozen seafood," said Huang Lei, who traveled all the way from the provincial capital of Changchun.

"Although the way we fish is old-fashioned, it does no harm to the lake and the modern machines will cause pollution," said Zhang.

The traditional method has seen some changes over hundreds of years.

"The net used to be made of cotton thread with small mesh, but now it is made of polythene with a bigger mesh, so we do not catch small fish, which protects fishery resources," said Zhang.

Folklore experts speak highly of Chagan Lake's winter fishing.

"It is the only culture of fishing and hunting remaining in the world that also protects the culture and memories of the people," said Cao Baoming, head of Jilin Folk Literature and Art Association.

The traditional custom has enriched not only cultural heritage but also local people.

For the past 11 years the local government has held a winter fishing festival to attract tourists. According to the tourism bureau of Chagan Lake Development Zone in Qianguo county, 3.99 million tourists visited the lake and spent 3 billion yuan ($480 million) this year.

Almost every home in the village near the lake has opened a fish restaurant.

"Life is easier now. We can afford flour and rice. I even bought a car, which I couldn't have imagined before," said Hu Renzhong, who runs a restaurant.

According to Hu, the best way to cook fish is by stewing it.

"The more time you spend stewing, the more delicious the fish is. You'll be hooked after you enjoy our delicious fish," Hu said proudly.

Contact the writers at liuce@chinadaily.com.cn and hanjunhong@chinadaily.com.cn