"That French fashion house attracted me for two reasons. One is that they had many luxury natural fabrics that fit knitting. The other is they were looking for young designers to revive the old brand," Tam says.

In 2009, he launched his own knitwear label in London and named it Placed by Gideon.

"Every designer has a dream to start his own label," Tam says. "I don't have much pressure in London, where there are many young up-and-coming designers and there is a friendly atmosphere for independent designers."

China Fashion Week 2013 A/W

Traveling frequently between Asia and Europe, Tam says his best muse is himself.

"I like traveling and observing people. See what people wear. For men, it is important to dress practically.

"But how to balance between smart and casual? How does one remain comfortable without looking sloppy? What can replace a tailored jacket, while still retaining a sartorial look?"

All these questions inspire his designs.

Exposure to the international fashion scene is one aspect of Tam's ambition, the other is to enter China's market.

"I really want to kick off in China. I'm a Chinese, educated with experience in Europe and I'd like to bring my experience back to China," he says.

Currently some of his collections are made in a small factory in Dongguan, Guangdong province. But the business is tough, he says.

As an independent label, Placed by Gideon has a small quantity of products, which means the factory does not make money from them. Paradoxically, young designers need to do something special to get recognized.

"It's really difficult to be a fashion designer in Hong Kong. The industry does not have a broad foundation. You need a lot of passion to survive," says Edith Law, chairwoman of the Fashion Farm Foundation. FFF and the Cultural Industry Promotional Association of Macao financially supported Tam to go to Paris and Copenhagen.

"Designers are key facets of the fashion industry. China has many young and talented designers but very few are known to the world," Tam says.

"They need opportunities to expose their work and to test their designs in the world market."

chenjie@chinadaily.com.cn

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