The city's contemporary traditions may seem driven by gambling.

Omnipresent billboards from Guangzhou to Hong Kong to Macao itself project the image of a tuxedoed David Beckham making himself at home at the Venetian. A fleet of Venetian courtesy buses ferries a constant stream of tourists to and from the resort and the ferries and airports. (If fortune smiles, you can also rent a helicopter.)

While you're living the high life, don't miss the Macallan Whisky Bar &Lounge at the Galaxy Hotel. In this warm cocoon of paneled oak, fine rugs and 400-plus whiskies, the finest malt is most enjoyable in front of the (real) fireplace.

When you've had enough glitzy fun, though, seek out the charms that Las Vegas will never know: the cobblestone lanes of the St. Lazarus district, a thriving artist's colony; the Guia Fort, sporting the oldest lighthouse in China; unpretentious but classic dining at Alfonso III, Antonio or Litoral; a comfortable hike around the island on the Coloane Trail.

You don't need to be a high-roller to enjoy every minute in Macao.

If you go

Macao is easily accessible via flights from major Chinese cities and by ferry from Shenzhen and Hong Kong.

There is free shuttle service to and from the top casinos and the nearby airports and ferries.

The local currency is the pataca. ATMs are plentiful on the island, particularly near the casinos, and dispense your choice of patacas or Hong Kong dollars. HK dollars are accepted almost everywhere, but your change will be in patacas.

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