The ornate exterior is nicely matched by the brightly decorative interior. Lacquered wood surfaces stretch as far as the eye can see. And framed prints adorn virtually all wall and ceiling spaces. With red lanterns providing warm glow from above. And tons of natural light streaming in from the panoramic windows that circle the seating area. Comfy booth line the circumference. And offer great views of the colorful procession of people outside.

The multilingual menu offers all the staples of Chinese teas: Keemun, Jasmine, Lung Ching, Ti Kuan Yin and a few decorative items. For group orders, a gong fu service is available, with an elaborate tabletop presentation. This gets lots of "oohs" and "aahs" from everyone in the vicinity. And triggers tons of camera flashes. Once again though, the central task is to impress your eyes, not taste buds.

But that's the tea-snob in me talking. A visit to the Old Teahouse is highly recommended. And given its central location, virtually unavoidable. Shanghai will almost certainly be the highlight of your trip to China. And the Old Teahouse will figure prominently in the pleasant memories this amazing city is likely to bestow.