I'm no longer a spa virgin.

Previously, the idea of my bare body being the focus of a stranger's attentions and manipulations was slightly unsettling and possibly a little too stimulating.

That, and I long ago accepted that it would be a waste of time, money and energy for my aging body to be made over into something younger, more toned and healthy - even if it was possible.

Melanie James, in charge of Conrad-Bali's award-winning Jiwa Spa, however, is not about to accept this and brims with confidence that I will be converted to the cause.

"Spa virgins are my favorites," says the Australian, rubbing her hands at the thought of my initiation, before explaining the benefits of massage, essential oils and moisture masks.

"It's all about creating a human connection, healthy inside and out," she says, insisting the treatments will be both a physical and mental boost.

Even so, it is with some trepidation that I set aside my reservations and am introduced to Ashi, a Bali local, who will be my spiritual guide to the mysteries of "wellbeing".

We disappear into the tranquil and immaculate spa environment and Ashi does her best to put me at my ease by pouring a cup of ginger flavored green tea, puts on an ambient soundtrack and establishes I have no serious health or skin conditions.

Then we get down to business and I climb face down on top of a treatment table, with a Vichy shower, that rains soft warm water up and down the body. At first I can't stop thinking of Chinese water torture, but gradually I am lulled into a state of semi-relaxation and negative thoughts are gently washed away.

Then, it's time for my rubdown. Ashi is gentle but nevertheless probes away at aches I never thought I had and time passes so quickly that when my reverie is concluded after 60 minutes, I am surprised that it was so painless and pleasurable.

Osteopath and masseur Emma Kipps later explains to me that massage, done properly, can reduce the thickening and hardening of muscles, release deep tension and improve movement by stretching.

She adds that men are a growing segment of the spa market - 30 percent in the US and up to 40 percent in Australia - and not just for New Age metrosexuals.

Her treatments principally use VitaMan products for men, which are used by such luminaries as George Clooney, Russell Crowe and Brad Pitt.

For my session, the skin is cleansed with lemon myrtle, walnut scrub exfoliates the dead skin, while a red wine age control mask infuses marine collagens and "powerful" antioxidants.

I also have a head massage, which is a revelation, as Kipps increases blood circulation and releases tension in the fine scalp muscle layer, with camphor and menthol preparations - finishing with a warm bamboo massage on the legs.

The next day is an early start but I am feeling unusually chipper, my body is more energized and the skin on my knees feels like a teen's. Which is odd.

My traveling companion, a spa expert, asks my masseur Ashi whether I was a pliant novice.

"He was like a baby," she says, laughing, as we undergo yet another massage session on the banks of a river in Ubud.

Afterward, we repair to a canvas tent and as the dying sun sheds its twilight vestments, we are treated to an Indonesian dance performance and a glass of chardonnay.

After three days full of intensive treatments I am no longer a spa virgin, but not quite a spa junkie.

Certainly the feeling is one of "wellness", but it undoubtedly helps that I am in idyllic surroundings, good company and seriously well-trained hands.

(China Daily 12/09/2012 page16)